thereâs the Four Corners Tavern with the cinder parking lot. Past Depot Street. Past Railroad. Down the long hill past Drummondâs Gloves, Inc.âstill operating in 1976, skidding just ahead of bankruptcy. (Mr. Drummond was an acquaintance of my dadâs, weâd hear of the poor manâs problems at mealtimes.) Bear right at the fork in the road past Apostles of Christ Tabernacle, one of Momâs first churches in the area but back before Judd was born, a sad cinder-block building with a movie house marquee and bright pink letters REJOICE ALL, CHRIST IS RISEN! Continue across the train tracks and past the Chautauqua & Buffalo freight yards. Youâll see the water tower fifty feet above the ground on what Iâd always think were âspider legsâ: MT. EPHRAIM in rainwashed white letters. (Probably there are Day-Glo scrawls, initials and graffiti on the water tower, too. Probably CLASS OF â76 MT.E.H.S. Thereâs an ongoing struggle between local officials who want the tower clear of graffiti and local high school kids determined to mark it as their own.)
Turn now onto Route 119, the Haggartsville Road, a fast-moving state highway. Gulf station on the left, Eastgate Shopping Center on the right, the usual fast-food drive-through restaurants like Wendyâs, McDonaldâs, Kentucky Fried Chicken all recently built along this strip in the early 1970âs. Spohrâs Lumber, Hendrick Motors, Inc. Familiar names because the owners were friends of my dadâs, fellow members of the Mt. Ephraim Chamber of Commerce, the Odd Fellows, the Mt. Ephraim Country Club. The traffic light ahead marks the town limits. Beyond, on the left, is Country Club Lane that leads back from the busy highway for miles in an upscale âexclusiveâ residential neighborhood; the Mt. Ephraim Country Club itself isnât visible from the highway but you can see the rolling green golf course, a finger of artificial lake glittering like broken glass. On the right is a similiar prestige housing development, Hillside Estates. Now youâre out of town and the speed limit is fifty-five miles an hour but everyone is going faster. Heavy trucks, semis. Local pickups. Youâre passing small farms, open fields as the highway gradually ascends. Railroad tracks run close beside the road for several miles then veer off through a tunnel that looks as if itâs been drilled through solid rock. Beyond a scattering of shantylike houses and a sad-looking trailer village thereâs a narrow blacktop road forking off to the right: High Point Road.
Now youâre in the foothills of the Chautauqua Mountains and those are the mountains in the distance ahead: wooded slopes that look carved, floating. Mt. Cataract is the highest at 2,300 feet above sea level, chalky at its peak, visible on clear days though itâs thirty miles away. It looks like a hand doesnât it? Marianne used to say like someone waving to us. In winter this is a region of snow vast and deep and drifting as the tundra. In my mindâs eye I not only see but cringe at the blinding dazzling white hills stretching for miles, tufted and puckered with broken cornstalks. Sparrow hawks circling overhead in lazy-looking spirals, wide-winged hawks so sharp of eye they can spot tiny rodents scurrying from one cornstalk to another and drop in a sudden swooping descent like a rocket to seize their prey in their talons and rise with it again. In warm weather most of the fields are tilled, planted. Hilly pastureland broken by brooks and narrow meandering creeks. Herds of Holsteins grazing; sometimes horses, sheep. Youâre in the deep country now, and still ascending. Past the crossroads town of Eagleton Cornersâpost office and general store in the same squat little building, farm supply store, gas station, white clapboard Methodist church. Now the character of High Point Road changes: the blacktop becomes gravel and dirt, hardly more than a