Near a Thousand Tables Read Free

“Cassava,” in N. W. Simmonds, ed.,
Evolution of Crop Plants
(London, 1976), pp. 81-84.
    12
“under the ashes”:
Quoted in P. Camporesi,
The Magic Harvest: Food, Folklore and Society
(Cambridge, 1989), pp. 3-4; variant version in G. Bachelard,
The Psychoanalysis of Fire
(London, 1964), p. 15.
    12
apply it to cooking:
C. Perlès, “Les origines de la cuisine: l’acte alimentaire dans l’histoire de l’homme,”
Communications,
xxxi (1979), pp. 1-14.
    12
blacken and smoke:
P. Pray Bober,
Art, Culture and Cuisine: Ancient and Medieval Gastronomy
(Chicago, 1999), p. 78.
    13
“all was roasted”:
Trans. E. V. Rieu (Harmondsworth, 1991), p. 43.
    13
on tree trunks:
F. J. Remedi,
Los secretos de la olla: entre el gusto y la necesidad: la alimentación en la Cordoba de principios del siglo XX
(Cordoba, 1998), p. 208.
    13
cook food on:
C. Perlès: “Hearth and Home in the Old Stone Age,”
Natural History,
xc (1981), pp. 38-41.
    14
sticks together:
H. Dunn-Meynell, “Three Lunches: Some Culinary Reminiscences of the Aptly Named Cook Islands,” in H. Walker, ed.,
Food on the Move
(Totnes, 1997), pp. 111-13.
    14
with stone:
C. A. Wilson,
Food and Drink in Britain from the Stone Age to Recent Times
(London, 1973), p. 65.
    14
Ireland alone:
M. J. O’Kelly,
Early Ireland
(Cambridge, 1989).
    15
“usually feasted on it”:
J. H. Cook,
Longhorn Cowboy
(Norman, 1984), p. 82.
    16
on a dagger:
C. Perry, “The Horseback Kitchen of Central Asia,” in Walker, ed.,
Food on the Move,
pp. 243-48.
    17
“what they wanted”:
S. Hudgins, “Raw Liver and More: Feasting with the Buriats of Southern Siberia,” in Walker,
Food on the Move,
pp. 136-56, at p. 147.
    17
in wrestling:
Trans., Rieu, pp. 274-76.
    17
“cultural object”:
C. Lévi-Strauss,
The Origin of Table Manners
(London, 1968), p. 471.
    18
from c 6,000 B.C.:
A. Dalby,
Siren Feasts: A History of Food and Gastronomy in Greece
(London, 1996), p. 44.
    18
“or technical skill”:
H. Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table
(New York, 1988), p. 68.
    19
over half:
C. Fischler, “La ‘macdonaldisation’ des moeurs,” in J.-L. Flandrin and M. Montanari, eds.,
Histoire de l’alimentation
(Paris, 1996), pp. 858-79, at p. 867.
CHAPTER 2: THE MEANING OF EATING
    21
“like gluttony”:
“Gluttony,”
Sunday Times,
December 31, 1961, quoted in C. Ray, ed.,
The Gourmet’s Companion
(London, 1963), p. 433.
    22
“visited the houses”:
E. Ybarra, “Two Letters of Dr. Chanca,”
Smithsonian Contributions to Knowledge,
xlviii (1907).
    22
“should be tastier”:
B. de Sahagún,
Historia de las Cosas de la Nueva España
(Mexico City, 1989), p. 506.
    22
“sepulchre of human flesh”:
A. R. Pagden,
The Fall of Natural Man
(Cambridge, 1982), p. 87.
    22
“the last fingernail”:
Ibid., p. 83.
    23
“my own eyes”:
H. Staden,
The True History of His Captivity, 1557,
M. Letts, ed. (London, 1929), p. 80.
    23
human butcher meat:
Pagden,
Fall of Natural Man,
p. 85.
    23
“at a most doleful rate”:
P. Way, “The Cutting Edge of Culture: British Soldiers Encounter Native Americans in the French and Indian War,” in M. Daunton and R. Halpern, eds.,
Empire and Others: British Encounters with Indigenous Peoples, 1600-1850
(Philadelphia, 1999), pp. 123-48, at p. 134.
    23
“over other food”:
J. Hunt,
Memoir of the Rev. W. Cross, Wesleyan Missionary to the Friendly and Feejee Islands
(London, 1846), p. 22.
    23
open to question:
W. Arens,
The Man-Eating Myth
(New York, 1979); G. Obeyeskere, “Cannibal Feasts in Nineteenth-Century Fiji: Seamen’s Yarns and the Ethnographic Imagination,” in F. Barker, P. Hulme and M. Iversen, eds.,
Cannibalism and the Colonial World
(Cambridge, 1998), pp. 63-86.
    24
Arawak hosts:
Quoted in L. Montrose, “The Work of Gender in the Discourse of