stopped all that, and regularly patrol the graveyard in the hope of rounding up any suspicious characters who havenât got the message.
Père-Lachaise has become just another stop on the backpackersâ tour of Europe, like the Pompidou Centre, the Eiffel Tower or the Grande Arche at La Défense. There are still those who make the pilgrimage because they are Doors fanatics, or because Morrison is their idol, but usually the visitors are there out of idle curiosity. If youâre âdoing Parisâ then you have to visit Père-Lachaise. The grave is still a shrine, but it has become a meeting place for tourists, like Londonâs Carnaby Street or Covent Garden.
Twenty-year-old Jacqui is from Sydney. Sheâs here because to her Jim Morrison represents the ideology and the freedom of the sixties. âAndâ, she says, âhe was a pretty cool guy. Very sexy. Iâm surprised by the grave,though â itâs very bare, very poor. I thought it would be much more elaborate. The bottles on the grave are very symbolic. Iâve just had a drink sitting on the grave â that felt very cool! Iâll definitely come again if I come back to Paris â you know, pay my respects, have another drink, and another smoke! They say heâs still alive, making music with Elvis in Africa, but I donât know . . .â
Lee Demelo, twenty-two, is from Ontario, touring Europe for the first time, stopping off in Paris for two weeks. âBasically weâve seen all the sights and we wanted to take a day off to come here, because itâs the thing to do. Itâs not what I expected, you know? You walk in here and thereâs all these humungous tombstones, and you walk up to Jim Morrisonâs grave and thereâs nothing, really. I suppose itâs not important, right? Itâs just the mental concept that this is where heâs buried, or supposed to be buried, right? All the people at the youth hostel have been here. Itâs great â Iâm the only person out of all my friends from Canada whoâs been to Paris, and Iâll be able to go back and brag about how I went to Jim Morrisonâs grave. Thatâs cool. Weâve taken some pictures to prove weâve been here.
âHe means so much to people, you know? The Doorsâ albums still sell, and they still mean a lot to people. Theyâre not like one of those groups that come and go . . . theyâll always be there. Iâm not really a Top-40 kinda guy, and the Doors mean a lot to me.â
Blue is an ageing French teacher who lived in Paris at the same time as Morrison. She has brought a single red rose to adorn his grave. âIâve been about a dozen times since he died â whenever Iâm in Paris I make a point of coming here. I come because to a certain extent he represented our generation. I was never a fan of his music but I liked his poems â and I could see he was trying to do something new with his poetry. But no one ever understood him, and he started to manipulate people when he didnât become appreciated. I know a girl who knew him closely, and she said he was more concerned about his poetry than he was about anything else he did. When he got them published he was happier than when he got his first record release.
âItâs a pity he became so manipulative, because I really think he had something, but he turned into quite a monster, I think. A shame.â
By now there are twenty people mingling around the grave, swapping stories, drinks and telephone numbers. Thereâs Adam from Iowa, Jim and Sheila from Birmingham, England, Bruce and Mikey from San Francisco, and a gaggle of college students from Los Angeles. Three middle-aged Parisian women sit on a nearby grave, sharing a bottle of cheap cognac and talking about nothing in particular. No one there knew Morrison, but this is the place to be. Two boys and a girl sit opposite, collectively rolling a joint.