the heat while hanging her arm out the window, a questionable driving skill she learned from her dad. I hoped that wasting heat was the worst she was doing.
Meanwhile, a tote bag of library books dug into my shoulder as a bag filled with Floriâs breads bumped against my knee. I felt like a weary pack mule. But wasnât walking the best exercise? And who could complain about a commute along Canyon Road, Santa Feâs renowned art district? I walked this way regularly, yet couldnât resist glancing in the brightly lit galleries, admiring panoramic paintings and fanciful figurines. I stopped by a giant statue of a horse head to readjust the tote bag. The statue, bronze turned to minty patina, stood as tall as an upturned van, with flaring nostrils and wild eyes. A nearby plaque named it as Helicon, cast from the mold for the worldâs largest equestrian bronze. Impressive, for sure, but for me the horse marked the best leg of my commute, the part that feels like an insiderâs secret.
Beyond the colossal horse, the galleries peter out, as do the tourists, few of whom make it as far as my address on Upper Canyon. Itâs too bad, as they would surely enjoy the picturesque landscape as much as I do. The narrow road follows a gentle creek valley and its ribbon of cottonwoods and willows. Silvery sage, flowering cactuses, and rabbitbrush, which blooms in golden puffs in autumn, are more common than the manicured lawns of my midwestern youth. Even more entrancing is the architecture. I still marvel at the high adobe walls with their bulging buttresses and massive gates trimmed in metalwork and flickering gas lamps. I also adore the peekaboo views of the homes behind the walls, their windows deep set in thick adobe. Some, like my new home base, started out as simple farmhouses and remain as modest family compounds. Others have become luxury estates. Iâve spotted my neighborsâ houses in design magazines, and realtors lucky enough to snag a listing in the area gush adjectives such as âextraordinary,â âincomparable,â and âpriceless,â all while assigning million-Âdollar-Âplus price tags.
And now this was my address . I still pinched myself, hardly believing my good fortune. Best of all, the desirable location came with a wonderful landlord, Victor. As I turned the final bend, I saw him waving to me from our mailboxes. I raised the bag of bread to show that Iâd brought treats.
âMmm . . .â he said when I reached the driveway. âThe dead must be talking to me because I sensed Floriâs pan de muerto before I saw you.â
I handed him the bag and he stuck his face in it, making more mmm and ahhh sounds. When he emerged, purple sugar smudged the tip of his big nose, complementing the turquoise paint above his ear and dotting his apron. Although supposedly retired now that heâs sixty-Âeight, Victor spends many hours running art workshops at his nonprofit for at-Ârisk kids. In his spare time he creates his own art, primitive paintings of saints done on reclaimed wood and metal. Saint art is more common than horse sculptures in Santa Fe. In other words, thereâs a whole lot of it. Victorâs work, however, stands out and is sought by collectors both locally and internationally. In fact, Flori heard from one of her sourcesâÂa keen-Âeared and loose-Âlipped museum docentâÂthat Victorâs saints will star in the Christmas exhibit at Santa Feâs Museum of International Folk Art. When I offered congratulations, though, Victor had shrugged them off. Heâs as humble as a teddy bear and resembles one too, with big ears, dark button eyes, and a round belly to boot.
I walked down the gravel driveway with Victor, charmed, as always, by the setting. The spacious gardens resemble a park more than a yard. Heirloom apple trees, planted by Victorâs grandfather, still droop with ruby-Âred fruit in summer.