resembled the turquoise one around Victorâs neck. âAnd this is Mom.â He picked up a photo of a smiling lady with a wide nose and broad cheeks like his own.
As he pointed out other relations, I made appreciative sounds and told him how much I admired his familyâs sense of history. I did admire it, although it pressed a guilt button. Could I name my great-Âauntâs cousin, let alone find a framed picture of her? I probably couldnât recall all of my great-Âgrandparentsâ names, and last year Iâd proved that I couldnât pick a first cousin out of a police lineup. Worst of all, I was shamefully behind on calling my mom and sister. Mom had left a phone message and several e-Âmails. I vowed to e-Âmail her. I knew sheâd prefer a call or better yet a visit, but I dreaded her worries, which often morphed into critiques. How is Celia coping? How will you cope, alone? Youâre a cook. Why donât you come home and cook?
Iâd given up trying to explain to Mom that Santa Fe, not Bucks Grove, Illinois, was my home now. Sure, I hadnât lived here long, and I only moved to try to save my marriage. Iâd thoughtâÂincorrectlyâÂthat Mannyâs discontent arose from big-Âcity-Âcop burnout, potentially curable by reuniting with his small-Âcity roots and family. After all, he always said he wanted to return to Santa Fe someday. When we met in Denver two decades ago, I was in culinary school and Manny was a dashing patrolman with urban-Âdetective aspirations. After Celia came along, we moved closer to my mom and sister, choosing a suburb within driving distance of both Bucks Grove and Chicago. Manny earned a detectiveâs badge in the city, while I took care of Celia, worried about my crime-Âfighting husband, and cooked part-Âtime at a French restaurant. I liked our town and my work well enough. They were fine, though not enthralling or enchanting. Manny, meanwhile, never meshed with his jobs or the Midwest. He switched departments and positions and became increasingly restless with work . . . and with me.
Although Santa Fe failed to save our marriage, it transformed my life for the better in other ways. Flori hired me even though Iâd never put hot peppers in my breakfast waffles and couldnât distinguish an ancho chile from a chipotle. She claimed that she sensed a shared spirit between us. Maybe it was our mutual knack for snooping. Then there was the place itself. The vast landscapes, the special light, the scent of roasting chiles, and, yes, even the painted bones enthralled me. I understood but couldnât quite articulate what Georgia OâKeeffe and others have felt. I belonged here. I had found my true hometown, the place I was meant to be. Mom didnât get the special light and breakfast chiles, but she usually conceded that I shouldnât tear Celia away from her dad and final years of high school.
Tuning back into Victorâs explanation of his altar, I thought of other aspects of Santa Fe that I loved, namely the wonderful Âpeople and vibrant traditions.
âIn Spanish this is called an ofrenda , an offering,â he was saying, waving his big hands to encompass the whole structure. Candlelight reflected off the thick silver rings and turquoise stones adorning his fingers. âThe idea goes back to the Aztecs, who gave their dead food for their journey to the netherworld. Now we celebrate the older beliefs together with All Saintsâ and All Soulsâ Days and Halloween too. This weekend, before the spirits return, Iâll add more drinks and foods that my relatives liked. We donât expect that theyâll actually consume it, of course, but itâs said that the spirits can smell and taste the food. Iâll put out other special things too, like this deck of cards for my Uncle Alejandro.â
I wished I could taste some of the food already in place, especially the