joining them for talk about politics and art. His solution to the fact that few people in London appeared to speak understandable English now was to learn their language. “The only way to get by in this ’hood is to speak Polish,” he announced recently. He also knew enough Bosnian, Czech and Portuguese to get by in the bars and shops without yelling, as well as enough of several other European languages to make his way without feeling marginalised in his own city.
I have lived on the same page of the A–Z all of my adult life. At lunchtime I liked to stroll twice around the tennis courts like the other workers. This area, between Hammersmith and Shepherd’s Bush, I heard once described as “a roundabout surrounded by misery.” Someone else suggested it might be twinned with Bogotá. Henry called it “a great Middle Eastern city.” Certainly it had always been “cold” there: in the seventeenth century, after the hangings at Tyburn, near Marble Arch, the bodies were brought to Shepherd’s Bush Green to be displayed.
Now the area was a mixture of the pretty rich and the poor, who were mostly recent immigrants from Poland and Muslim Africa. The prosperous lived in five-storey houses, narrower, it seemed to me, than North London’s Georgian houses. The poor lived in the same houses divided up into single rooms, keeping their milk and trainers fresh on the windowsill.
The newly arrived immigrants, carrying their possessions in plastic bags, often slept in the park; at night, along with the foxes, they foraged through the dustbins for food. Alcoholics and nutters begged and disputed in the street continuously; drug dealers on bikes waited on street corners. New delis, estate agents and restaurants had begun to open, also beauty parlours, which I took as a positive indication of rising house prices.
When I had more time, I liked to walk up through Shepherd’s Bush market, with its rows of chauffeur-driven cars parked alongside Goldhawk Road Station. Hijabed Middle Eastern women shopped in the market, where you could buy massive bolts of vivid cloth, crocodile-skin shoes, scratchy underwear and jewellery, “snide” CDs and DVDs, parrots and luggage, as well as illuminated 3-D pictures of Mecca and of Jesus. (One time, in the old city in Marrakech, I was asked if I’d seen anything like it before. I could only reply that I’d come all this way just to be reminded of Shepherd’s Bush market.)
While no one could be happy on the Goldhawk Road, the Uxbridge Road, ten minutes away, is different. At the top of the market I’d buy a falafel and step into that wide West London street where the shops were Caribbean, Polish, Kashmiri, Somali. Along from the police station was the mosque, where, through the open door, you could see rows of shoes and men praying. Behind it was the football ground, QPR, where Rafi and I went sometimes, to be disappointed. Recently one of the shops was sprayed with gunfire. Not long ago a boy cycled past Josephine and plucked her phone from her hand. But otherwise the ’hood was remarkably calm though industrious, with most people busy with schemes and selling. I was surprised there wasn’t more violence, considering how combustible the parts were.
It was my desire, so far unfulfilled, to live in luxury in the poorest and most mixed part of town. It always cheered me to walk here. This wasn’t the ghetto; the ghetto was Belgravia, Knightsbridge and parts of Notting Hill. This was London as a world city.
Before we parted, Henry said, “Jamal, you know, one of the worst things that can happen to an actor is that he gets onstage and there’s no excitement, only boredom. He’d rather be anywhere else and there’s still the storm scene to get through. The words and gestures are empty, and how is this not going to be communicated? I’ll admit this to you, though it is hard for me to say and I am ashamed. I have had my fair share of one-night stands. Aren’t strangers’ bodies