says.
âYes, everyone says so.â
âThough itâs probably time for him to go now. But you didnât used to be able to go out at night,â she says. âItâs not scary anymore.â
âNo, well, Iâm sure ⦠I mean, if you were used to it before. It must feel very different.â
âYou never came before?â she asks. âIn the eighties and the nineties when they had the ⦠what do you call it when you canât go out at night?â
âCurfew?â
âYeah, the curfew.â
âNo,â I say. âNo, thank God. Even now, itâs about as scary as
I
can cope with.â
She twitches her nose, and then peels the aluminium foil from her dish with her vast fluorescent fingernails. âItâs pathetic,â she says.
âAirline food?â I ask.
âThe way you people look down your noses at everyone.â
âIâm sorry?â
âYou would think that nothing bad ever happens in Europe,â she says.
âOh,â I say, realising that I have broken the golden rule of untainted adulation. âI didnât actually say
that.â
âThere are murders and gangs and drugs in Europe, you know. Where do you think all the cocaine goes? Who do you think they grow it for?â
âNo, youâre right,â I say, frowning. âYouâre totally right.â
She forks a lump of non-specific vegetable matter from her dish and makes a âHumph,â sound, and then pops her headphones into her ears. And thatâs the end of our conversation.
As I eat my meal, I think about the differing nature of violence in England, France and Colombia, because of course, as Lolita says, shit does happen back home. If the media are to be believed, then it happens more and more.
But it is somehow
different
shit. Itâs drunken shit, and racist shit, and sometimes homophobic shit. But itâs shit that I understand, and for the most part, shit that I know how to avoid. I can sense when a bar brawl is about to happen and leave. When faced with a group of a certain kind of men after a certain hour in a certain part of town I can cross the road. Itâs the way Colombian violence springs from a glassy lake that unnerves me. Itâs the way it vanishes back into it leaving barely a ripple. Itâs the way it bursts from smiling happy people who, often without even dropping that smile, pull a knife or a gun. Thereâs no aggro, no negotiation, no tension. Itâs often not even about obtaining anything. Itâs just about stopping some dog, or some
one
, doing some
thing
that is found to be irritating. It cracks like thunder, and thenvanishes leaving the bystanders to roll a cigarette and sweep up the storm damage. In the end what makes it so unnerving is that lack of understanding ⦠itâs that I donât get the context.
There is a specific Colombian attitude to life as well. Itâs as if, living amidst so much mayhem, they have learned to enjoy every moment. And they have looked death in the eye and accepted its inevitability as well. So, no matter what you discuss, you will hear how Colombian thinking has been forged between a rock and a hard place. On money:
better spend it today. You might be dead tomorrow
. On suicide:
Well, if you donât like the film, I canât see why you should have to stay to the end
. On paedophilia:
Whatâs the point of all that? A trial and a judge, and years of prison. Such a waste of money. Far better to deal with it the Colombian way. Click. Done. Over
. On cigarettes:
Iâd rather die of cancer at fifty than sit in my own piss till a hundred
.
And when you hear these viewpoints often enough, your own relationship with death starts to shift too. Life starts to seem like it
is
an episode of Desperate Housewives, where the
obvious
answer to a whole clutch of problems is murder. Itâs catching yourself thinking the Colombian way, thatâs the