Sheâs taller than me (even without her platform soles) and has Pete Burns cheekbones, Angelina Jolie lips, and âsurprisedâ eyebrows. She looks like the subject of a documentary on cosmetic surgery catastrophes.
I squash my legs against the bulkhead as she slides into the middle seat beside me and think about just how much longer the flight is going to seem with so little legroom. I wish that the four-foot-not-many-inches guy now sitting down on her right was my neighbour instead.
She glances at him, then smiles at me but says nothing. As she rolls towards me in an effort at extracting the seatbelt from beneath her buttocks I get a retch-inducing whiff of perfume.
I turn to look out at the Bogotá rain and think about Ricardo heading off to his motherâs house. He seemed fine of course. He was positive and effervescent during the drive to Santa Marta, and then warm and smiley for the flight to Bogotá. When the fifteen-seater went through a white-knuckle patch of turbulence, he even quipped,
âHe died on the way to his motherâs funeral.â
But I remember only too well from when Tomâs father died, how quickly âfineâ can turn to âbreakdown.â But if he doesnât want me there â and he clearly doesnât â then there isnât much I can do.
Lolita Jackson, as I nickname my six-foot beauty, doesnât speak to me until the Iberian trolley dollies arrive with our first meal. Given the choice ofchicken or fish, I half expect her to reply, âNeither â Iâm a tranny actually,â but she plumps for
âpollo,â
and hearing her voice, I think,
âGod, sheâs a woman.â
I canât help but wonder if âtrannyâ was the look she was aiming for when she embarked on the surgery path all those years ago.
On hearing me request my vegetarian meal, she breaks her silence and asks me in near-perfect English where Iâm from.
âEngland,â I say. âNear London.â
âSo youâre on holiday?â she asks.
âNo, Iâm kind of living here,â I say. âWell, living
there.â
âSo you like Colombia?â
âOf course,â I say, reaching past her for my tray which has now arrived. âEveryone loves Colombia.â If thereâs one thing I have learnt itâs that the only opinion you should ever express about their homeland is one of pure positivity.
âA miserable country of third-world under-achievers,â she says.
âReally? I like it,â I say, unflummoxed by the remark. Itâs very fashionable in Colombia to slag the place off. I know itâs all bravado. âSo youâre not Colombian?â
âSure I am, but I live in Valencia these days. It shows, doesnât it?â
âSure,â I say. I restrain myself from adding,
âYou have that euro-tranny look down to a tee.â
âI prefer Spain,â she says.
âWell, Spain is great too.â
âSo you
like
Colombia,â she asks again, incredulously.
âI do,â I say. âItâs amazingly beautiful. Donât you think so?â
âI suppose. And the people?â
âOh, theyâre incredibly friendly,â I answer. âThe happiest people I ever met.â And itâs all true. Colombia
is
stunningly beautiful. Itâs like a dramatised version of France, only with rain-forests and a few Caribbean beaches thrown in for good measure. And the people
are
the most welcoming, smiling, contented people I have ever come across.
âYes in Europe people love you or hate you, or they just donât care.â
âRight,â I say.
âIn Colombia we love you or we kill you. Sometimes both at the same time.â
I laugh. âYes, well, there is that.â
âAnd that doesnât worry you?â
I shrug. âNowhere is perfect,â I say.
âItâs got much better since Uribe got in,â she