Prague Pictures: Portraits of a City Read Free

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     it had seemed a bold adventure, but here in the winter light behind the Iron Curtain the inevitable misgivings had begun to
     assail us. In those days travellers' tales were rife of Western tourists being seized for the most trifling contraband offences
     and detained for months, for years, even, beyond the help of consular entreaty or ministerial bargaining. While I had often
     entertained the idle fancy that a jail cell might be the ideal place in which to write, I did not relish the prospect of mouldering
     for an indefinite period in an Eastern Bloc prison. There rose before me again the image of that Gellert sausage described
     by J. and G., or a distant relative of it, anyway, all mottled and shrunken with age, and floating not in a nickel dish but
     plonked down on a rusty tin plate beside a hunk of grey bread . . . Too late to back out now, however, for here was the Professor's
     hushed tapping at the door.
    He was a tall, spare man with pale, short hair brushed neatly across a narrow forehead, a Nordic type unexpected this far
     to the south and east. Impossible to tell his age; at first sight he might have been anywhere between thirty and sixty. He
     was handsome, with that unblemished surface and Scandinavian features, yet curiously self-effacing, somehow. Even as he stood
     before me I found it hard to get him properly into focus, as if a flaw had suddenly developed in the part of my consciousness
     that has the task of imprinting images upon the memory. I think it was that he had spent so many years trying not to be noticed
     - by the authorities, by the police, by spies and informers - that a layer of his surface reality had worn away. He had something
     of the blurred aspect of an actor who has just scrubbed off his make-up. He shook hands with each of us in turn in that grave,
     elaborate, central European way that makes it seem one is being not greeted for the first time but already being bade farewell.
     Such a melancholy smile. His English was precise, with only the faintest accent. He welcomed us to Prague in a mild but calmly
     seigneurial tone, as if it were not Prague we had arrived in but his own private domain. We were to catch this proprietorial
     note repeatedly here, especially in intellectual circles; so many things that were precious had been taken from the lives
     of these artists, critics, scholars that they clung to the idea of their city, its history, its shabby magnificence, its unyielding
     mysteriousness, with the passion of exiles. I had brought a litre of duty-free Irish whiskey as a gift. 'Ah, Jameson!' the
     Professor said, in the tone of one acknowledging a precious gift from what had seemed a mythic place, silk from Cathay, spices
     from Samarkand. He took the bottle from my hands delicately, almost tactfully, with a finely judged degree of gratitude. Courtly:
     that was the word. It struck me I had never met anyone to whom the term could be so aptly applied.
    He had advanced no more than a pace or two into the room, and when I moved to shut the door I seemed to detect behind the
     rimless spectacles that he wore a flicker of unease, of alarm, even. Still holding the whiskey bottle, he stood with his elbows
     pressed into his sides, his grey raincoat buttoned to the throat. When G. began to speak of the mission that had brought the
     three of us to Prague he silenced her at once by putting a finger to his lips and pointing to the dusty light fixture in the
     middle of the ceiling. It was another Prague gesture, always accompanied by a hapless apologetic smile, with which we were
     to become depressedly familiar. There were, there really were, hidden microphones everywhere.
    We went down to the lobby, where the Professor judged that it was safe for us to talk, albeit in guarded murmurs. The two
     beautiful, black-eyed girls had gone, though their empty coffee cups, the rims printed with smeary lipstick kisses, remained
     on the table under the plastic palm. There were some