looks like Whitbourne was a pretty upmarket, swanky place, years ago. The glamour has faded now.
We keep going, past the bandstand, the crazy golf and the bowling greens. After the lifeboat station thereâs a cluster of pine trees and then the road starts to wind uphill. Over in the distance I can see the coast curving round and climbing up towards a huge white chalk headland.
âThere are some serious cliffs over there,â I say.
Robbie nods.
âYeah. The big oneâs called Bellevue Point. Itâs like Beachy Headâs little brother. Hundred and twenty-five metres above sea level. Itâs nice up there. Iâve been with Mum and Dad. Thereâs a pub and a visitorsâ centre. But I donât think weâre going to be doing a lot of sight-seeing this weekend.â
I laugh. Sight-seeing isnât too high on my list of priorities.
Itâs warming up now. The road away from the seafront seems to be getting steeper. Iâm just thinking itâs turning into another hike, when I see the gates of Wonderland looming at the end of a long road lined with tall trees.
âSo whatâs this place like?â Dylan asks.
Robbie scratches his chin.
âPoor manâs Butlins. Youâve got a mini-village with shops and then thereâs this big entertainments place where theyâve always got stuff going on.â
I laugh.
âKnobbly-knees competitions and Glamorous Grannies?â
âYouâre not far off,â Robbie says.
Weâre up at the entrance now. Thereâs a trail of red concrete paw prints leading the way across the car park in the direction of a big grey bunker at the top of the slope. Chalets and caravans stretch away into the fields all around us.
Dylan grabs my elbow. He nods at the perimeter fence. Itâs five metres of mesh topped off with barbed wire.
I grin.
âIs that to keep the locals out, or keep the holidaymakers in?â
âDunno,â Dylan says.
We go through a set of double doors into the grey bunker and enter a sort of foyer area. A payphone is bolted to the wall on the right, next to a shelving unit filled with brochures for local attractions, old newspapers and dying pot plants. Straight ahead, a six-foot cardboard cut-out of a bear in red dungarees is holding a placard.
TONITE IN THE ENTERTAINMENT CENTRE
FAMILY FUN WITH COMPERE VIC WHITLEY
INTERNATIONAL DJ TONY CURTIS
SIX TIL LATE
George smiles.
âTheyâre keen on bears,â he says. âPaw prints in the car park, big cut-outs in here. Whatâs that all about?â
âItâs Benny the Bear,â Robbie says. âDisneyland have got Mickey, Wonderland have got Benny.â
George and Dylan nip to the toilets. I take off my sunglasses and wander across to the big notice board on the far wall. Itâs covered with posters for forthcoming events. There are a lot of tribute nights coming up. T-Rexocet. Stasis Quo. Seventies bands. The music my Nan listens to. Tickets are still available for Jack Jones and David Dickinson from Bargain Hunt .
I walk over to where Robbieâs still standing and we wait for George and Dylan. When theyâre back, we go through another set of double doors and come out into a courtyard. Itâs the mini-village Robbie was talking about. There are shops to the left and right of us. The Wonderland Supermarket, a hairdressers, a chip shop, a bakers, a couple of coffee places, one or two takeaways. Across on the far side is what looks like a big sports hall. The Family Entertainment Centre.
âWhat do you think then?â Robbie asks.
âSpot-on mate,â I say.
I have another look around. Over to the left thereâs a bloke leaning against the wall of the Happy Valley Chinese with a fag in his mouth. Heâs about sixty, and looks like heâs lived every last minute. Heâs a dodgy-looking character in a red blazer and grey trousers that are too short for him. Under the blazer,