colleagues renamed it Nutella. Today its popularity knows no bounds, and it is available in everything from tiny tablespoon-sized containers to giant 2-pound jars.
2 cups (300 g) hazelnuts
¾ cup (90 g) confectioners’ sugar
¼ cup (40 g) good-quality unsweetened dark cocoa powder, such as Valrhona or Scharffen Berger
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons canola oil, or more if necessary (optional)
Note: This spread is as addictive as its inspiration. I add 5 tablespoons of cocoa to the mixture, which gives it a very satisfying chocolate and hazelnut flavor—you may want to add a bit more or a bit less.
I call for neutral oil here, which gives it a lovely spreadable consistency. If you leave out the oil—which I do on occasion—the flavor is still the same, but it is a bit more solid and less easy to spread.
Finally, don’t expect the completely smooth texture of commercial Nutella here. Think of this as the “crunchy” version!
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Spread the hazelnuts on a jelly-roll pan and toast them until you can smell them, about 10 minutes. Remove them from the oven and place them in a cotton towel. Scrub and roll them around in the towel to remove the skins.
2. When the hazelnuts are skinned (don’t be concerned if you cannot remove all the skin—just do the best you can), place the hazelnuts in a food processor and process until the nuts make a smooth paste, which will take some time, about 10 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar and cocoa powder and process again until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Add the salt, process, and if the mixture is very dry, add the canola oil while the machine is running. Taste for seasoning. If the mixture is very warm, let it cool completely before transferring it to a jar and sealing it. It will keep for about 1 month in a cool, dark spot.
Apricot Pistachio Compote
Makes 6 to 8 servings
What better way to start the day than with a bowl of fresh apricot compote studded with pistachio nuts? I like to serve this freshly made and warm or layered with yogurt in a parfait.
2 pounds (1 kg) apricots, pitted and cut into quarters
2 / 3 cup (140 g) muscovado or dark brown sugar, lightly packed
Seeds from 4 cardamom pods, crushed (about ¼ teaspoon)
Zest of ½ lemon, minced
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
¼ cup (30 g) pistachio nuts
Pinch of salt
Note: The amount of sugar you use will depend on your sweet tooth and the sweet ripeness of the apricots.
I love this hot from the stove, but you can also make it the night before and serve it either chilled or at room temperature.
1. Place the apricots and ½ cup (112 g) of the sugar in a nonreactive saucepan and let sit until the apricots soften and begin to give up their liquid, at least 1 hour. Place the saucepan over medium heat, stir the apricots and sugar and the liquid the apricots have given up, and bring the mixture to a gentle boil. Cook, stirring frequently to keep the compote from sticking to the bottom of the pan, for 30 minutes.
2. Add the cardamom and lemon zest and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the apricots have turned from a bright orange color to a darkened, rusty color and the juices have thickened somewhat, 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to lukewarm before serving.
3. Melt the butter in a small skillet over medium heat and add the pistachios. Cook, stirring constantly, until the pistachios are golden on the outside, 5 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle with the salt, stir, and remove from the heat.
4. When the compote is cool enough to serve, divide it evenly among six to eight dishes. Sprinkle each dish with a teaspoon of the remaining brown sugar and an equal amount of pistachios. Serve.
Almond Cake
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Moist, not too sweet, just slightly exotic with the almonds and the orange flower water, this makes a perfect breakfast treat, though it is actually a traditional North African dessert. Cut it into
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