rather
than bedraggled. Now that the sun was down the air had grown heavy,
however, and I’d been glad to be waiting tables instead of hanging
tough in front of the pizza oven, which is where I was now headed.
The oven is a relatively new addition at the Pelican, just installed
when I started there nine months ago. It had controversially replaced
a prime block of seating where customers had been accustomed to sit-
ting themselves in front of seafood for nearly thirty years, and I knew
Ted still lost sleep trying to calculate whether the cost of a wood-
fi red oven and the associated loss of twelve covers (multiplied by two
or three sittings, on a good night) would soon, or ever, be outstripped
by gains accruing from the fact you can sell a pizza to any child in
America, whereas they can be notoriously picky with fi sh. His wife
thought he’d got it wrong but she believed that about everything he
did, so while he respected her opinion he wasn’t prepared to take it as
the fi nal word. Ted is a decent guy but how he’s managed to stay afl oat
in the restaurant business for so long is miraculous. A rambling shack
overhanging the shallow and reedy water of a creek that wanders out
to the sea—and tricked up inside with dusty nets, plastic buoys, and
far more than one wooden representation of the seabird from which it
takes its name—the Pelican has now bypassed fashion so conclusively
as to become one of those places you go back to because you went
there when you were a kid, or when the kids were young, or, well, just
because you do. And, to be fair, the food is actually pretty good.
I could have done the pizza math for Ted but it was not my place
to do so. It wasn’t my place to make the damned things, either, but
over the last fi ve months I’d sometimes wound up covering the sta-
tion when Kyle, the offi cial thin-base supremo, didn’t make it in for
the evening shift. Kyle is twenty-two and shacked up with Becki, the
owner’s youngest daughter (of fi ve), a girl who went to a barely ac-
credited college down in California to learn some strain of human-
resources bullshit but dropped out so fast that she bounced. She
B A D T H I N G S 11
wound up back home not doing much except partying and smoking
dope on the beach with a boyfriend who made pizza badly—the ac-
tual dough being forged by one of the backroom Ecuadorians in the
morning—and couldn’t even get his shit together to do that six nights a week. This drove Ted so insane that he couldn’t even think about it
(much less address the problem practically), and so Kyle was basically
a fi xture, regardless of how searching was his exploration of the outer
limits of being a pointless good-looking prick.
If he hadn’t shown up by the time someone wanted pizza then I’d
do the dough spinning on his behalf, the other waitstaff picking up
the slack on the fl oor. I didn’t mind. I’d found that I enjoyed smooth-
ing the tomato sauce in meditative circles, judiciously adding mozza-
rella and basil and chunks of pepperoni or crawfi sh or pesto chicken,
then hefting the peel to slide them toward the wood fi re. I didn’t em-
ulate Kyle’s policy of adding other ingredients at random—allegedly
a form of “art” (which he’d studied for about a week, at a place where
they’ll accept dogs if they bring the tuition fees), more likely a legacy
of being stoned 24/7—but stuck to the toppings as described, and so
the response from the tables tended to be positive. My pizzas were
more circular than Kyle’s, too, but that wasn’t the point either. He
was Kyle, the pizza guy. I was John, the waiter guy.
Not even the waiter, in fact, just a waiter, among several. Indefi nite article man.
And that’s all right by me.
Wonderboy finally rolled up an hour later, delivered in an open top
car that fi shtailed around the lot and then disappeared again in a
cloud of dust. He went to the locker room to change, and