chile recipe from Tlaxcala. These sweet-hot pickled chiles can be the basis of a sauce of their own if they’re further puréed, or they can be served as a condiment with enchiladas and other main dishes.
½ pound (224 g) dried chipotle chiles, stems removed
1 quart (.95 L) distilled white vinegar
1 head garlic, peeled and crushed
½ cup (118 mL) piloncillo, or ½ cup (118 mL) packed brown sugar
1 cup (236 mL) roasted and peeled green chile, such as poblano or New Mexican
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
6 black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground cumin
Salt, to taste
1. Soak the chipotles in water until they rehydrate, at least an hour, then drain.
2. In a saucepan, combine half the vinegar, half the garlic, and the brown sugar. Cook this mixture over low heat for about 20 minutes, then add the chipotles.
3. In another pan, combine the green chile, tomato, remaining garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, cumin, remaining vinegar, and salt to taste. Cook over medium heat for about 30 minutes, covered. Add the chipotle chile mixture, stir well, and store in sterilized jars.
Salpicón de Yucatán (Yucatecan Vegetarian Radish Relish)
Yield: ½ cup (118 mL)
Heat Scale: Medium
Nancy and Jeff Gerlach often wrote about this relish from their favorite region in Mexico, the Yucatán Peninsula, where they retired to a house on the beach. Nancy notes, “The first time we were served this relish of ‘little pieces’ we were surprised by the use of radishes, which added not only flavor, but an interesting texture to the salsa. For variety, add some diced tomatoes or avocados.” Serve this relish over seafood.
2 habanero chiles, stems and seeds removed, diced (or substitute
4 jalapeño or 4 serrano chiles)
1 large red onion, peeled and diced
8 to 10 radishes, thickly sliced
3 tablespoons (45 mL) lime juice (fresh preferred)
3 tablespoons (45 mL) chopped fresh cilantro
1. Combine all the ingredients, except the cilantro, in a bowl.
2. Allow to sit for an hour to blend the flavors. Toss with the cilantro and serve.
Recado Rojo (Red Seasoning Paste)
Yield: ½ cup (118 mL)
Heat Scale: Mild
Here is a classic Yucatán seasoning paste from Nancy and Jeff Gerlach, who note, “This is the most popular of all the different recados, and it is very typical of Yucatán. It is used to add both flavor and color to foods, and is most commonly used for pibils, or stewed pork dishes. The red color comes from the annatto seeds, which also add a unique flavor to this tasty paste. Available commercially as achiote paste, Recado Rojo is far better when prepared at home.”
4 tablespoons (60 mL) ground annatto (achiote) seeds
1 tablespoon (15 mL) mild red chile powder
1 tablespoon (15 mL) dried oregano (Mexican preferred)
10 whole black peppercorns
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) salt
1 (1-inch [2.5 cm]) cinnamon stick
4 whole cloves
2 whole allspice berries
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) cumin seeds
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
3 tablespoons (45 mL) distilled white vinegar
1. Place the annatto seeds, chile powder, oregano, peppercorns, salt, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, and cumin in a spice or coffee grinder and process to a fine powder. Add the remaining ingredients and grind to a thick paste, adding a little water if the mixture is too thick.
2. Allow to sit for an hour or overnight to blend the flavors.
West Indian Masala
Yield: About ½ cup (118 mL)
Heat Scale: Medium, with the habanero powder
This spice blend is superior to commercial masalas because the freshly ground seeds have not oxidized and lost their flavor. Generally speaking, when turmeric is added to masala, it becomes curry powder. Adding habanero powder makes it hot masala, which is used in Caribbean curries.
6 tablespoons (90 mL) coriander seeds
1 teaspoon (5 mL) fenugreek seeds
2 teaspoons (10 mL) fennel seeds
1 teaspoon (5 mL) mustard seeds
1½ teaspoons (7.5 mL) cumin seeds
2 teaspoons (10 mL) turmeric (optional)
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) habanero