a street lined with men carving tombstones I found myself breathing into a wall. I donât know how long I stood like that, my forehead and palms against the cool, rough brick, with the chiselling of stone and the roar of motorcycles and chatter of language swirling around me. It couldnât have been long â as I quickly learnt, a tall white woman with dark red hair is never left alone for long in Hanoi â but it felt like hours. Even my memory of it is protracted; I feel I leant into that wall for at least as long as I had spent on all of the planes I had caught in the week leading up to it, from LA to Perth to Sydney to Bangkok to here.
Someone took my arm and led me into nearby cool dimness. Blur and noise and then I was sitting down and something cold and wet was pressed onto my face and then my neck and then my forehead. There was a drink in my hands and the chilled, sticky sweetness revived me enough that I had a moment of worry over the cleanliness of the ice clinking in the glass.
âThank you,â I said to the girl blinking over me. She said something in Vietnamese and I was saved from not responding by the man I only then noticed sitting across from me. He was as pale as I was, although several days of stubble darkened the lower half of his face. He answered the girl in what sounded to me like fluent Vietnamese and she giggled and scurried off.
âAlways making people laugh,â he said in an Australian accent. âEven when Iâm just asking for a bottle of water. Howâre you feeling?â
âBetter,â I said and drank some more liquid sugar. âNot used to the heat.â
âHow long you been in Vietnam?â
I couldnât make sense of it. I knew I hadnât spent a night in the hotel where Iâd left my bags, hadnât even eaten a meal. I knew the sun was as bright outside as it had been when Iâd climbed into theBÃ i airport cab. âNot long,â I said finally. âA few hours.â
âAh. It can be overwhelming at first.â He took the water bottle from the giggling waitress and passed it to me. âHell, Iâve been here five years and I still get overwhelmed sometimes. How long you staying?â
I gave him the answer Iâd given my sisters in Sydney. âI donât know. It depends. If I like it I may never leave.â
âReally?â
I shrugged as though it made no difference to me. âDo they have food here?â I asked.
âThey do, but I wouldnât recommend it. I was actually on my way to lunch when I saw you lurching about out there. If youâre right to walk, thereâs a terrificstand around the corner.â
I went with him and didnât feel too bad when he and the old woman behind the stove laughed at my clumsy attempts to scoop and slurp like a local. He told me his name was Matthew, that he was a journalist with the local English-language newspaper, that he lived in an apartment near the Hanoi Opera House and that he would never leave Vietnam at all if it wasnât for his son back in Australia.
âHis mother wonât let him visit me. Sheâs worried Iâll keep him here, I think. I visit him two or three times a year. Every time he seems to have grown half a foot. Heâs twelve now and almost as tall as me. Lovely boy, though Iâd never say that to him. Heâs at that age, you know, wants to be a lot of things but lovely isnât one of them.â
Iâd never been interested in children, not even my nieces and nephews. I certainly couldnât have interest in the unseen, unnamed child of a man Iâd just met. Yet I remember Matthew speaking about him, remember the exact look in his dark, watery eyes. Itâs not significant, I know that. Itâs because it was my first day in Hanoi, because Iâd swooned in the street and been revived by sugar water and beef noodle soup and now everything was sharp and vivid and searing. I