would be enough to deliver him to us. And I needed Esme to believe it too.
âI donât know. But we have to hope, right?â I said.
âI guess.â
âYou know it.â I squeezed her shoulders. âLetâs go get some dinner. Iâm starved.â
chapter four
We slept soundly and awoke well rested. The tide rolled in and out beneath our hut. I turned over to find Esme staring at me.
âYou snore,â she said.
âI do not.â
âYou are the last person who would know it, Luca. So Iâm here to tell you, as the only person who has ever shared your bed, you snore.â
âYouâre not the only person Iâve ever shared a bed with.â
She grinned. âIâm not, am I? Do tell.â
âIâll have you know my cousin Jeremy and I used to camp out all the time. And when I went to San Francisco with Kevin last year, we shared a bed.â At the mention of Kevinâs name, we both fell silent. Esme rolled out of her sleeping bag and picked up a sweatshirt off the floor. She walked to the window and gazed at the ocean.
âI guess we missed dawn patrol,â she said.
The best waves of the day are often during the early morning tide. Any surfer who rises to catch them is part of what is called the dawn patrol. Thereâs something mystical about being out in the ocean as the sun is rising. Itâs peaceful and different from any other time of day. It feels as though everything is starting over again.
I slipped out of my sleeping bag and pulled on a pair of shorts. âYeah, I guess we did.â
âIf Kevinâs here, he would have already been out surfing.â
I opened my backpack and retrieved a breakfast bar. I had eaten a hundred of these since leaving LA. They werenât getting any better. âBy now heâd be back in bed dreaming of giant waves. Speaking of which, what are the waves like?â I went and stood beside her.
âStill coming in pretty nice. There are people out on both breaks.â
I could smell fish cooking somewhere. Birds were calling to one another in the jungle, and the mist from the ocean was fresh and cool on my face.
âWant to get some breakfast or head straight out?â
âLetâs go out. Iâm not hungry.â
The waves were rolling in. Four or five waves would come in and break, and then there was an interval of calm. Fish swam beneath our boards, and during one lull I saw a turtle. The waves were a reasonable height, six or seven feet, and curled nicely when they broke. I took the first good wave, rode it out and then sat on my board to watch Esme. She dropped into a seven-foot wave and rode in the barrel, white foam lapping above her. She got ahead of the wave, shot out the end of the barrel and launched herself up and over the backside.
âVery nice,â I said when she paddled over to me.
âThese are beautiful.â She grinned.
I was relieved to see her happy. As we paddled back toward the break, I saw the surfer from the day before who hadnât wanted to speak to us. He was bobbing in the middle of a pack of surfers.
âThereâs that guy from yesterday,â I said. âThink heâll try to avoid us again?â
âI donât think he was trying to avoid us,â Esme said. âIt seemed to be more of a language issue.â
âIâm not so sure,â I said. He hadnât seemed freaked out by a couple of gringos. He seemed as if he wanted to get away from us. âBut, whatever. Letâs go talk to them.â
Another set came in. The break shifted slightly to the left. We duck-dived through each wave. By the time we got out to the break, there was only one surfer there.
âWell, hello again,â Alana said.
âFancy meeting you out here,â I said. A couple of surfers paddled toward the shore. âWhere did everyone go?â
âThey cut to the other break,â Alana said. âItâs
August P. W.; Cole Singer